If you are going to Bangkok for the first time, here’s some advice about wandering around and using public transportation in the City of Angels. Some of this advice will also help you in any other metropolis, Asian or otherwise.
Tuk-tuk
Let’s get that subject out of the way immediately. I never recommend tuk-tuks! They are uncomfortable, expensive, have no air conditioning, and you are exposed to pollution and the weather. In case of an accident you also have little to no protection. Additionally, you may not end up where you wanted to go but instead find yourself conveniently dropped off at a tailor’s shop or a massage parlour.
The only reason to use a tuk-tuk is if it’s your first time in Bangkok and you want to try it for the experience. Do it once, take some pictures, and then choose another option.
Taxi
I try not to use taxis in Bangkok, mostly because of the traffic. Most of the time you will find yourself stuck with a driver who gets nervous because he isn’t earning when the car isn’t moving. However, sometimes you don’t really have a choice — like when you have too much luggage or when travelling at night. In those cases two rules apply:
- Never take a taxi whose driver is standing outside touting for customers, especially in tourist areas or outside clubs in the early morning. If you have to walk 100m to a main street to hail a taxi, do it — you’ll save a lot of money.
- Always take metered taxis. Just ask “meter?” when the taxi stops. If the driver says no, wait for the next one.
If you need to take a taxi from Suvarnabhumi Airport there is an official taxi station on the arrivals level, managed by the airport. You’ll have to pay 50 baht extra, but it’s a safe option. The downside is that there’s often a long queue. If you don’t want to wait or pay extra, go up to the departures level and hail a taxi there. You won’t have to wait — there are always taxis dropping off passengers. Make sure you ask about the meter. In any case, you will also need to pay the highway tolls in addition to the fare (unless you enjoy sitting in traffic).
UPDATE 2014-01-08 Richard Barrow reports that the airport installed turnstiles at the departure level to block access to taxis. But it looks like you can still manage it with a bit of gymnastics.
If you’re going to a club at night, the taxi fare may be free (the clubs pay for it). Just tell the driver the name of the club. If it’s your first time going there, confirm with the driver that it will be free; otherwise, make sure he uses the meter. On the way back home it won’t be free. Don’t choose one of the taxis waiting outside the club — they rarely use the meter. Walk to the nearest street and hail one instead.
If you order a taxi from your hotel reception, ask for a “metered taxi” and confirm with the driver that he will use the meter. Some hotel staff have “arrangements” with taxi drivers…
Motorbike taxi
Motorbike taxis are a very convenient and cheap way to travel short distances (the driver won’t take you too far anyway). You need to be comfortable on the back of a motorbike though. Make sure the driver has an extra helmet for you, and use it.
I usually combine BTS/MRT with a motorbike taxi, either to go to the nearest station or to cover the last mile between the station and my destination.
Bus
I only take a bus when I am with Thai friends who know — or can ask — which bus to take. There is no real schedule and no bus lanes in Bangkok, so buses are subject to traffic as well. However, they are really cheap. Click here to get more information about Bangkok buses.
Boats & Ferries
Bangkok is built on the delta of the Chao Phraya River, and there are many waterways in addition to the river itself. There was a time when travelling by boat was very common. It’s not the case anymore, and only a few waterways can still be used. There are a few boat taxis, but I never use them. Word is, if you get splashed while riding a boat or fall in the water, you could get very sick. Click here to get more information about Bangkok boats & ferries.
BTS & MRT
Combining the BTS (Skytrain) and the MRT (Metro) is the best way to travel in Bangkok. They are unaffected by traffic, air-conditioned, and cheap. Only two drawbacks: they can get really crowded with commuters, and they don’t run between midnight and 6am.
The Airport Link is a skytrain, part of the BTS system, and is a cheap (and often the fastest) way to get from Suvarnabhumi Airport to downtown. From there you can easily connect to other BTS lines or the Metro. This is my preferred option when I arrive in Bangkok, don’t have too much luggage, and am not too lazy (it involves some walking).
My preferred way to travel is to combine motorbike taxis, the Skytrain, and the Metro. But when I am lazy, or in a hurry and there is little traffic, I will just take a taxi.
What about you? If you are a Bangkok regular, tell us in the comments how you usually travel around and if you have any interesting stories about public transportation in Bangkok.